The typical ``gogijip,’’ or Korean barbeque restaurant, is a large, open, loud and smoky hall lined with long tables, where big groups of families or corporate workers sit on the ``maru’’ (floor) and enjoy charcoal grilled meat with rice, side dishes and various stews and noodles.
"Yukhoe bibimbap (육회 비빔밥)" Korean mixed vegetable rice with beef tartare
/Photo by Lee Hyo-won
Hanok, in Cheongdam-dong, is a refined and elegant spin-off of the average Joe’s gogijip. Here, down to earth Korean dishes are upgraded _ in both price and quality.
The owner used to run the fashionable Italian restaurant Il Mare, and Hanok, in tune with the upscale neighborhood, features a chic, simple décor with sleek, modern furniture and traditional lattice windows _ most appropriate for a place with a name homonymous with the Korean word for traditional house.
Along with regular tables and chairs, it features an elevated maru where diners can be seated, shoes off. Unlike most family restaurants, this place features a concaved space beneath the tables for the legs, allowing comfortable seating for skirted women and those unused to sitting in the traditional style.
The menu includes various meat dishes, from barbeques and grills to ``naengmyeon’’ (cold buckwheat noodles) and stews. At an open kitchen counter, chefs can be seen mincing the meat, all guaranteed to be ``hanwu’’ (native Korean cattle) beef and of A to triple A quality. The price is naturally rather high.
Various types of ``bulgogi’’ (marinated beef) and ``galbi’’ (beef barbeque) cost between 23,000 won and 46,000 won per serving. ``Chadolbagi’’ (beef brisket) costs 35,000 won, and ``deungsim’’ (grilled beef sirloin) costs up to 63,000 won per serving. The meats are prepared raw and cooked on the spot over a tabletop griller, just as at any other gogijip.
You can order wine or traditional drinks from the adequate wine menu, featuring bottles that cost between 40,000 won and 230,000 won. A 10 percent tax is included.
"Chadol doenjangjjigae (차돌 된장찌개)"Soy bean paste stew with beef brisket
Photo by Lee Hyo-won
Epicurean bloggers love the ``fresh meats’’ but if you’re not looking for a big barbeque meal, the a la carte menu, featuring popular Korean dishes, will be more than satisfying. We ordered two must-haves, ``yukhoe bibimbap’’ (mixed vegetable rice with beef tartare, 11,000 won) and ``chadol doenjangjjigae’’ (soy bean paste stew with beef brisket, 11,000 won).
The two meals were served with several side dishes, each one very delicate and savory. The bibimbap came in a large clay bowl filled with carefully prepared greens. The steamed rice and raw beef came separately, as did the red pepper paste. A small pot of doenjangjjigae accompanied the dish.
After adding the meat, rice and pepper paste, you can mix it all up _ using chopsticks rather than your spoon so as not to crush the fresh ingredients. The chilled meat tasted fresh, chewy and juicy, like finely prepared tuna belly sashimi. The red pepper paste had a mild consistency and spiciness that anyone, even those with delicate palates, can consume without worrying too much. While the yukhoe dish is highly recommended, those who aren’t fans of raw meat can order regular bibimbap (8,000 won).
The chadol doenjangjjigae was absolutely delightful. With the addition of thin, fatty strips of beef brisket, the typical clam-flavored stew tasted rich and super savory, dripping with protein in every spoonful. It was served with a bowl of rice. Other stews offered at Hanok are regular doenjangjjigae, kimchi ``jjigae’’ (stew) with pork and ``galbitang’’ (beef rib soup), which are priced between 7,000 won and 16,000 won.
Hanok is located behind the main strip of Cheongdamg-dong, which is lined with fashion boutiques. The closest subway stations are Apgujeong on line 3 and Cheongdam on line 7. To get there, go up the alley next to the Prada flagship store and make a left. You can easily find a black sign with white letters in English. Open everyday from 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m., with a break between 3:00 and 5:00 p.m. Call (02) 3445-7857.
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