Winter, the Way It Used to Be...

In the winter, kimchi and other fermented vegetables and sauces were stored in ``jangdok'' or clay pots. These pots were buried in the ground for natural refrigeration. This tradition continues to this day, with many urbanites trading in jangdok for modern kimchi refrigerators. / Korea Times File

The temperature may be falling below zero these days, but they say Korean winters aren't as harsh as they used to be. The Han River, once a popular resort for ice skating and fishing, rarely freezes. How did people bear the cold back in the days? Here's a peek into how Koreans endured the winter chills during the Joseon Kingdom (1392-1910).

Home Sweet Home

``Hanok'' (traditional homes) were designed to be cool in the summer and warm in the winter. They used ``ondol,'' or an underfloor heating system that transfers heat directly from a stove to the bottom of a masonry floor. Basically, houses sat elevated on a huge fireplace. Koreans enjoy ondol to this day and boast a unique ``jjimjilbang'' (sauna) culture in which people relax in various precious stone-encrusted ondol rooms.

A major source of wood smoke was the kitchen. Cooking rice in a ``gamasot'' (iron pot built into a clay fireplace) would produce the smoke necessary for heating floors.

Inside, one would sit on a nicely heated ondol floor (shoes off, of course) and keep even warmer with a`` hwaro'' (brazier). One would take wood from the ondol fireplace and put it in the hwaro and carefully cover it with ash to keep it burning. The hwaro was also used to light pipes, warm irons and roast simple food, like sweet potatoes. The hwaro flame was then used to relight the fireplace. Its versatility made it a household necessity that mothers guarded with care.

The cold weather kept people at home, and pastimes included simple indoor games like ``finding the ring.'' Girls sat around in a circle and passed around a ring, while the ``it'' person would guess who had it.

Fun in the Snow

The frightful weather didn't discourage people from indulging in outdoor fun. `Jegichagi'' (kicking a shuttlecock), for example, is a game that can be enjoyed anytime, anywhere. But it was particularly practiced in the winter and early spring, as it encouraged the player to break a sweat while getting fresh air outside.

The Han River was transformed into a playground for everyone: children played with snowballs and sleighs and spun tops on ice while adults enjoyed ice fishing. As recently as the 1960s, when modern refrigeration was rare, the frozen river provided citizens with ice cubes that were stored in sawdust until the summer.

In an agricultural society strongly rooted in shamanism and dependent on Mother Nature, snowfalls had a deeper meaning. Snow was used for fortune telling, with heavy snowfall forecast as the harbinger of good barley crops and ample rain. This custom was actually stemmed from careful observation and farming experience. The insulating effect of snow prevented barley roots from rotting and produced heat when melting, rendering soil moist, healthy and germ free. Furthermore, the amount of winter snow is correlated with summer precipitation, so heavy snowfall was usually followed by lots of rain in June.

Winter Wear

Joseon's citizens braved the winter without compromising fashion. Men and women wore quilted cotton or silk ``hanbok'' (traditional clothes). They layered themselves with undergarments, pants or skirts, fur-lined vests and full-length coats. They also wore ``tosi'' (wristlets) for insulation and men tied ``daenim'' (cloth ribbons) around their ankles.

Thermal ``beoseon'' (socks) were double-layered and stuffed with cotton for extra warmth. People didn't forget to wear a hat that covered the ears and cheeks. Unisex hats were called ``nambawi,'' while women enjoyed ornate ``jobawi,'' and children, quilted patterns called ``gulle.''

Commoners, who didn't have the privilege of traveling by palanquins as aristocrats did, kept their clothes dry from the snow by wearing ``dorongi'' (tightly knit straw waterproof capes) and ``satgat'' (cone-shaped reed hats). There were short, wooden skis and snowshoes, as well as ``wanggoljipsin,'' or straw snow boots.

New Year Wishes

In addition to New Year's, ``jeongweol daeboreum'' (Jan. 15 of the lunar calendar) was an important day. Traditionally, the sun symbolized the male while the moon represented the female and fertility. A full moon falls on the 15th night of each lunar month, and so people prayed for prosperity and health during the first full moon of the year. Jeongwoel daeboreum falls on Feb. 9 this year.

Various festivities took place on the special day, ranging from special snacks to games and rituals. In the morning, people ate hard-shelled nuts to ``crack'' the chances of getting boils. Already looking forward to having a safe summer, people greeted one another saying ``please buy my heatstroke.'' Cows also got a special treat of multigrain rice, as it was believed to bring a fruitful year of farming.

Children flew kites with ``misfortune'' written onto them and cut the strings at sunset, bidding farewell to bad luck. At nightfall, people gathered to watch the full moon, and good luck supposedly went to the first person to see it.

A winter treat was ― and still is ― ``patjuk,'' or red bean porridge. The sweet concoction is often served with rice cake balls, making for a hearty snack. The color red is also traditionally believed to ward off bad spirits. A popular eatery serving patjuk is The Second Best Place in Seoul. The name comes from the owner's claim that her patjuk will always be second best after her mother's. It is located on the main strip in Samcheong-dong, northern Seoul, near Gyeongbok Palace. Call (02) 734-5302.

Also see "Summer, the Way it Used to Be..."
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