Indulge in Guilty Pleasure of `Daechang’

역삼동 부산 양곱창

When it comes to food I may be pernickety about taste but I'm not prude (though I was quasi-vegetarian for a long time and will never, ever eat dog meat or such). Anyway, if you like blood sausages then you'll totally dig this!

Korea Times Photos by Lee Hyo-won

It’s juicy and fatty and just melts on the tip of your tongue. ``Daechang gui,’’ or grilled beef tripe (the largest of the cow’s four stomachs), is, even for many locals, an exotic Korean delicacy that is considered an acquired taste. But for those who relish the savory stuff, it’s the chou cream of the meat world.

This reporter admittedly has never been a big fan of beef tripe, or even beef for the matter, but she decided to brave something new, and was pleasantly surprised at Busan Yang Gopchang in Yeoksam-dong, southern Seoul.

This family restaurant as typical of such Korean eateries is a large hall lined with tables you enter, shoes off, and sit down in the traditional style. There are a few tables with chairs in a tent outside as well. The venue is crowded around the clock, with a varied clientele ranging from the necktie-clad corporate types to sunglasses-sporting celebrities that all come for one thing: garlic-smothered charcoal-grilled intestines.


In traditional agricultural Korean society, the cow was man’s best friend. After a long life of servitude it gave itself as meat, and Koreans paid their respects by sparing no anatomical part, including the guts.

Beef tripe is categorized into four parts: ``yang’’ or tripe-scaled; ``beoljip’’ or honeycomb; ``cheonyeop’’ or omasum , which are bloody red chunks that can be devoured raw like beef liver; and ``makchang’’ or abomasum (shown left).

What you usually order at a yang grill restaurant are yang, ``gobchang,’’ the small bowel, and daechang, the large bowel. Gopchang is chewy and healthy -- ``Dongeui Bogam,’’ the Joseon (1392-1910)-era medical annals compiled in the 17th-century, claims that it boosts physical stamina and energy and healthy bowel movement.

We opted for yang, wide strips of meat that look like chicken, and daechang, which resemble plump, fat-stuffed sausages. You can taste the cheonyeop and liver, too, which they offer for free. The unique thing about Busan Yang Gopchang is that they smother the meats in freshly mashed garlic before cooking them. The staff does all the work for you, cutting the intestines into more edible bits and placing them on the grill, and all you have to do is wait patiently.

The yang cooked faster, and you get three types of sauces: the very basic salt and sesame oil mix you get with ``samgyeopsal’’ or grilled Korean pork; a diluted soy sauce with chopped fermented pepper; and a red, piquant concoction. The waitress advised us to mix the second with the third. Yang has a very particular aroma that some newcomers may find unusual, sort of like lamb meat, and the sauces do a good job of suppressing it.



We needed much patience to stop ourselves from digging into the daechang, but still watched in awe as the greasy insides oozed over while the outside turned into a golden honey color. Daechang is definitely not for those thinking about cholesterol levels. It felt like eating chou cream for dinner -- a fluffy, delicate -- and fattening -- flavor that invites a divine guilt trip.

Yang gopchang is, as already mentioned, a delicacy, despite the low-key ambiance of the restaurants that serve it, and costs more than 20,000 won per serving. Meals, such as gopchang kimchi fried rice and ``naengmyeon’’ or buckwheat noodles, cost less than 6,000 won.

If you are planning a trip for a taste of daechang or other flavorful part of cow stomach, it is strongly advised to dress low-key. Even so, be sure to grab an apron, or ask for one -- the sizzling grill will constantly attack you with spurts of crackling oil, and afterward, you will inevitably smell like what you ate.

Located across the street from the Renaissance Hotel between Yeoksam and Seolleung Stations on subway line 2. Open from 5 p.m. to 6:30 a.m. everyday. Call (02) 554-7780.

Take a Bite of the Big Apple

Photos by Lee Hyo-won, except for green apple, below (Korea Times File)

NEW YORK - The Big Apple continues to symbolize the great American melting pot, and a culinary adventure to savor all of New York City’s dizzying food culture is not only ambitious but almost impossible in a limited amount of time, especially since chic restaurants and eateries seem to mushroom here continuously.

There are countless ``it’’ bars and brunch places that have international audiences smacking their chops while watching ``Sex and the City.’’ In the jungle of luminous skyscrapers, yellow cabs and poker-faced pedestrians, there is, without fail, a hotdog or pretzel stand in every corner. Then there’s Little Italy, dotted with pizzerias; Chinatown, teeming with dimsum places; and Koreatown, lined with round-the-clock ``galbijip.’’

Still, there’s nothing like cuisine that embodies the soul of a culture and a people, and one can only attempt to take a big bite of the Big Apple. The following is a very modest -- and very subjective -- list of low- to mid-budget treats the city has to offer. But what is certain is that this reporter finds herself going back to them time after time.

NY Exotica

Forget the hotdogs and the pretzels. The best street food -- and tastiest halal dish -- in the city can be found at the corner of 53rd Street and 6th Avenue. The modest truck is hard to miss, considering how a long line of hungry pedestrians can be spotted even in the wee hours around 4 a.m. For $6, you get a plate full of scrumptious lamb and chicken (you can choose either or both), rice and pita bread. Don’t forget to smother it with the white sauce, bottles of which can be found next to the truck. But the red chili sauce should be handled with care, because it will burn you.

Quintessential New York cuisine _ an eclectic mix of Spanish, Chinese-American and Kalyustan flavors, among other influences _ comes in tasting portions at Alta (slightly hidden on the south side of 10th Street between 5th and 6th Avenues). Chef Harrison Mosher offers small, fun dishes like ``Brussels Sprouts’’ with Fuji apples, crème fraiche and pistachio nuts or Moroccan Bistilla of chicken confit, creamy eggs, and scallion with harissa mayonnaise. The restaurant features small rooms with orange-colored walls and heavy wooden furniture, providing a cozy, intimate dining experience _ particularly since you’ll have to lean over the table with your company to taste the small yet satisfying portions. Call (212) 505-7777.

Prince & Pauper

Caviar for breakfast? ``Sex and the City’’ fans will be familiar with Norma’s, the chic brunch place found on the ground floor of Le Parker Meridian Hotel (West 57th Street between 6th and 7th Avenues). Don’t worry if $1,000 is too much for breakfast (appropriately named the Zillion Dollar Lobster Frittata), because Norma’s other meals are under $30. Try their lovely eggs Benedict and fluffy blueberry pancakes. Open from 7 a.m. to 3 p.m. everyday. Call (212) 708-7360.

Le Parker Meridian, however, is also home to the city’s secret obsession, the Burger Joint. Literally a hole in the wall, it is tucked away next to the front desk, with only a mini neon hamburger sign announcing its presence. After entering the posh marble-floored hotel lobby, you’ll be surprised to walk into the down-to-earth diner, where names are scribbled on poster-covered walls. You can order your hamburger ($7) at different levels of ``doneness’’ (rare, medium or well done) and choose the dressing (tomatoes, onion, etc). You can taste the smoky flame flavor from the charcoal grill. Cheeseburgers ($7.50) include two types of cheddar for special effect. Complete the experience with greasy fries ($3.50) and a cup of milkshake (vanilla or strawberry, $5) or beer. Call (212) 708-7417.

Art & Food

Gustav Klimt and Vienna coffee are a couple of Austria’s hottest assets, and you can get both at the Neue Gallerie (corner of 86th Street and 5th Avenue). This gallery is home to the painter’s gold-encrusted masterpiece ``Adele Bloch-Bauer I’’ among other works. Café Sabarsky on the ground floor features tasteful food and period objects. Sit at the classic wooden table below the beautiful lighting fixtures and savor Vienna coffee, desserts and sausages by chef Kurt Gutenbrunner. Closed on Tuesdays. Call (212) 288-0665.

After gallery hopping around Chelsea, swing by the meatpacking district’s never disappointing Balthazar. The onion soup gratinee ($10.50) is a steady pleaser, and other standard French bistro dishes such as moules frites (oysters with French fries, $20), steak frites with Béarnaise sauce ($29.50) and duck confit ($21) are delectable. Call (212) 343-1274.

Eastern Inspiration

You don’t need to be in Koreatown (West 32nd Street) for tasty ``bibimbap’’ (Korean mixed vegetable rice) and charcoal barbeque. Gyu-Kaku, a fashionable Japanese eatery in mid-town (East 50th Street and 3rd Avenue), offers Japanese-style ``galbi’’ (Korean barbeque) and kimchi bibimbap, which the server mixes for you. Call (212) 702-8816.

In the East Village, David Chang’s much talked about Momofuku Ssam Bar (corner of 13th street and 2nd Avenue) offers modern, upscale spin-offs of traditional Asian cuisine. The dishes, such as kimchi Fuji apple salad, boast creative presentation and delightful taste, but are rather tiny. This would be a better place to enjoy ``sake’’ (Japanese rice wine) and fun foods after a light dinner. Call (212) 254-3500. Another great place to hang out is the Bryant Park Grill. On a summer afternoon you can sip ice tea in view of the green park, while on a calm autumn evening you can sip cocktails at the romantically lit bar. Call (212) 840-6500.

Sweet Tooth

A meal is never complete without a dessert. Cupcakes are all the rage in Korea, and a New York trip is never complete without a mouthwatering visit to Magnolia Bakery (three shops found, one in the downtown area, the second near Rockefeller Center and a third one uptown). The sugary Red Velvet, served with traditional whipped vanilla icing, is a must ($3). Visit www.magnoliacupcakes.com.

A more formal venue for dessert is the ``Sex and the City'' favorite Payard's (Lexington Avenue, between 73rd and 74th Streets). The bistro-patisserie offers a mean onion soup gratinee that's topped with a generous amount of Gruyere cheese ($10), but the true highlight is the dessert menu. The cakes, such as the warm chocolate toffee cake with marshmallows, are to die for, even though they're a little pricey ($13). Call (212) 717-5252.

Another great place is Café Lalo (West 83rd Street, between Amsterdam and Broadway). While overrun by tourists, this charming French café fails to displease with its juicy berry pies, Belgian waffles and espresso. Breakfast sets range from $4.50 (Paris style croissant and coffee) to $18 (large Jewish lake sturgeon with salad, bagel and drink). Call (212) 496-6031.

On the Go

If you’re craving fresh crème brulee on the go, and happen to be in Greenwich Village, stop by the Dessert Truck (8th Street and University Place). The truck offers chocolate bread pudding, molten chocolate cake and more at reasonable prices. The slow-baked apples and cinnamon features a light, buttery pastry with caramelized baked apple and a heap of cinnamon, tart cranberries and streusel topped with light whipped cream _ ``it’s like autumn in a cup’’ as one fan said.

Whether you’re in a hurry or want to enjoy a nice sandwich in a cozy place, Le Pain Quotidien is the place to be. It’s a bakery with a large, wooden communal table in the middle, where you can munch away soups, tartines and baguette sandwiches. The chain shop can be spotted all over town. Visit http://www.lepainquotidien.com/.

Last but not least, you cannot leave New York without tasting New York-style pizza. Lombardi’s in Little Italy is more than famous, but Two Boots can be a fine alternative to busy people. The kitsch retro diner features a pair of boots by the window and pizzas with strange names inspired by celebrities, movie characters, etc. Toppings are fresh, diverse and generously served on your choice of crust (Sicilian or whole wheat). Visit http://www.twoboots.com/. You can order deliveries by phone or online.

Luxurious Korean Beef Dishes at Hanok

청담동 고기집 '하녹'

The typical ``gogijip,’’ or Korean barbeque restaurant, is a large, open, loud and smoky hall lined with long tables, where big groups of families or corporate workers sit on the ``maru’’ (floor) and enjoy charcoal grilled meat with rice, side dishes and various stews and noodles.

"Yukhoe bibimbap (육회 비빔밥)"
Korean mixed vegetable rice with beef tartare
/Photo by Lee Hyo-won

Hanok, in Cheongdam-dong, is a refined and elegant spin-off of the average Joe’s gogijip. Here, down to earth Korean dishes are upgraded _ in both price and quality.

The owner used to run the fashionable Italian restaurant Il Mare, and Hanok, in tune with the upscale neighborhood, features a chic, simple décor with sleek, modern furniture and traditional lattice windows _ most appropriate for a place with a name homonymous with the Korean word for traditional house.

Along with regular tables and chairs, it features an elevated maru where diners can be seated, shoes off. Unlike most family restaurants, this place features a concaved space beneath the tables for the legs, allowing comfortable seating for skirted women and those unused to sitting in the traditional style.

The menu includes various meat dishes, from barbeques and grills to ``naengmyeon’’ (cold buckwheat noodles) and stews. At an open kitchen counter, chefs can be seen mincing the meat, all guaranteed to be ``hanwu’’ (native Korean cattle) beef and of A to triple A quality. The price is naturally rather high.

Various types of ``bulgogi’’ (marinated beef) and ``galbi’’ (beef barbeque) cost between 23,000 won and 46,000 won per serving. ``Chadolbagi’’ (beef brisket) costs 35,000 won, and ``deungsim’’ (grilled beef sirloin) costs up to 63,000 won per serving. The meats are prepared raw and cooked on the spot over a tabletop griller, just as at any other gogijip.

You can order wine or traditional drinks from the adequate wine menu, featuring bottles that cost between 40,000 won and 230,000 won. A 10 percent tax is included.


"Chadol doenjangjjigae (차돌 된장찌개)"
Soy bean paste stew with beef brisket
Photo by Lee Hyo-won

Epicurean bloggers love the ``fresh meats’’ but if you’re not looking for a big barbeque meal, the a la carte menu, featuring popular Korean dishes, will be more than satisfying. We ordered two must-haves, ``yukhoe bibimbap’’ (mixed vegetable rice with beef tartare, 11,000 won) and ``chadol doenjangjjigae’’ (soy bean paste stew with beef brisket, 11,000 won).

The two meals were served with several side dishes, each one very delicate and savory. The bibimbap came in a large clay bowl filled with carefully prepared greens. The steamed rice and raw beef came separately, as did the red pepper paste. A small pot of doenjangjjigae accompanied the dish.

After adding the meat, rice and pepper paste, you can mix it all up _ using chopsticks rather than your spoon so as not to crush the fresh ingredients. The chilled meat tasted fresh, chewy and juicy, like finely prepared tuna belly sashimi. The red pepper paste had a mild consistency and spiciness that anyone, even those with delicate palates, can consume without worrying too much. While the yukhoe dish is highly recommended, those who aren’t fans of raw meat can order regular bibimbap (8,000 won).

The chadol doenjangjjigae was absolutely delightful. With the addition of thin, fatty strips of beef brisket, the typical clam-flavored stew tasted rich and super savory, dripping with protein in every spoonful. It was served with a bowl of rice. Other stews offered at Hanok are regular doenjangjjigae, kimchi ``jjigae’’ (stew) with pork and ``galbitang’’ (beef rib soup), which are priced between 7,000 won and 16,000 won.

Hanok is located behind the main strip of Cheongdamg-dong, which is lined with fashion boutiques. The closest subway stations are Apgujeong on line 3 and Cheongdam on line 7. To get there, go up the alley next to the Prada flagship store and make a left. You can easily find a black sign with white letters in English. Open everyday from 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m., with a break between 3:00 and 5:00 p.m. Call (02) 3445-7857.

Stylish Chinese Bistro Baengnak

중식 비스트로 '백락'
지하철 7호선 청담역 6번 출구 02-546-0032

As chic, cozy eateries sprout up, the residential Cheongdam Park neighborhood in southern Seoul is perhaps, very slowly, turning into the next Seorae Village (a trendy area in Bangbae-dong).

Right next to the reputable French bistro L’Espoir is Baengnak _ a Chinese bistro that serves traditional Sino-Korean dishes with style. Forget the grimness of typical Chinese eateries in town. While it isn’t luxurious like Yeun Kyung in Cheongdam-dong, Baengnak boasts a comfortable yet refined ambiance. The best part is that you can get great service at a tablecloth-covered table for simple meals under 10,000 won.

The owner decorated the place himself, finding inspiration from Italian eateries for the red cushion seats that line the faded green walls, which are adorned with framed antique photographs from the Mainland. The small, palm-sized place has only seven tables (which can be multiplied if separated into smaller spaces for parties of two), an open kitchen and visible storage space. When the weather becomes warmer, Baengnak opens up its folding door facade and turns into a romantic, open-air bistro.

``Gganso’’ or chili shrimp (깐소새우) /Photo by Lee Hyo-won

The décor is a reflection of the food itself. With ``well-being China’’ as its motto, Baengnak opts for fresh, quality ingredients. ``It’s expensive, but we use only domestic produced meats and rice, and cook them with premium Canadian canola oil,’’ the manager told The Korea Times. The chefs do not use MSG, which is notoriously associated with the local Chinese cuisine, though a small number of dishes may contain a pinch. They also swear that all foods, including side dishes, are never ``recycled.’’

The menu features classic Korean-style Chinese dishes like ``jajangmyeon’’ (noodles with black bean sauce) and fried rice (flying fish roe is favored among regulars). Various meat and vegetable entrees range from 20,000 won (``tangsuyuk’’ or sweet and sour pork) to 98,000 won (shark’s fin). Lunch and dinner sets are priced at 35,000 won and above.

The ``gganso’’ or chili shrimp (32,000 won) initially surprised us, as it featured only six shrimps, as large as they were. But it reminded us of those miniscule portions in upscale, multiple-course meals. Beneath the sweet and spicy chili sauce, we could savor the fried bread covering that was at once crunchy, thin and soft, and finally the juicy meat. It would make a satisfying appetizer for two or three people. The cream shrimp sauce is also recommended.


``Gochu jajangmyeon’’ or black bean paste noodles with pepper (고추자장면) /Photo by Lee Hyo-won

Next came the ``gochu jajangmyeon’’ (7,500 won). Gochu or pepper made it spicier and less greasy on the palate than regular jajangmyeon. The noodles were chewy, and the delectable sauce was savory with just the right consistency of veggies and pork. The ``samseon udong’’ (seafood noodle soup; 8,000 won) was absolutely delightful. The seafood topping was generous and varied, and the soup had a deep, refreshing tang. This would be perfect for those who find ``jjambbong’’ (spicy noodle soup) too hot.

We chose ``gyoja mandu’’ or dumplings from the popular dim sum list. The plate of eight dumplings for 7,500 won is pricey, but the taste was unforgettable. The pork dumplings, steamed and then lightly fried, were crunchy on the outside and soft in the inside, oozing with broth as a reputable dim sum ought to.



``Gyoja mandu’’ dumplings (교자만두) /Photo by Lee Hyo-won

Unlike most local Chinese eateries, Baengnak does not deliver. But you can call in advance (02-546-0032) to get takeout orders. To get there, take exit 6 from Cheongdam Station on subway line 7. Walk straight ahead and make a left at Starbucks, and you will find Baengnak’s black billboard with two white Chinese characters. Open from 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m., and closed on Sundays.

Authentic Japanese Ramen at 81 Banya

Miso chya-syu ramen at Ramen 81 Banya in Itaewon /Korea Times Photo by Lee Hyo-won

Seoul has its fair share of ramen eateries, but Ramen 81 Banya on the main drag of Itaewon is an undying favorite among aficionados of the savory Japanese noodles.

The owner, 57-year-old Mr. Kasahara, brought over his 25-year cooking know-how from Japan in 2003, and his handmade noodles have since been bringing in a string of faithful customers. One young man, who spent a month-long trip in Japan eating ramen twice a day, claims that 81 Banya is the singular local eatery that remains uninfluenced by Korean ramyeon.

The restaurant’s ``Japan-ness’’ can be found in every corner of its slim, humble interior. Furnished by just a couple of tables and a long counter lined with stools, it feels like stepping into a Japanese eatery. Ramen manics can also pick up a copy of a Ramen bible in Korean for 5,000 won.

The menu is very simple, with two types of noodles and a few variations of each. The soy sauce-based syo-yu ramen (7,000 won) has a lighter, refreshing taste and comes with a slice of chya-syu, or fatty pork imported from France. The miso or Japanese bean curd flavored ramen (8,000 won) comes without the chya-syu. It isn’t salty but has a deep, tangy flavor that is very soft on the palate. Both are topped with green bean sprouts, corn and seaweed, of which extra portions can be ordered for 1,000 won each. Each additional slice of chya-syu is also 1,000 won.

Many ramen lovers often prefer the chya-syu ramen (11,000 won), which comes with a generous serving of the scrumptious pork. Meat lovers will appreciate it while those who crave steamy noodles will find it a bit much. Some go a step further and add butter (1,000 won) to their miso chya-syu ramen (13,000 won). While this may sound like cholesterol abuse, the taste is at least more savory than greasy. But this, too, is for the more ``experienced’’ ramen eater.

The true highlight of the place, though, is the ramen-eating competition found in many Japanese manga (comics). Anyone can brave the jumbo size: four servings of any ramen selection. The prize? Forfeiting the price of 20,000 won and a picture mounted in the hall of fame.

There are several rules: you can’t let the noodles go cold, and you must finish the meal within 20 minutes; you must remain seated at all times; and lastly, you must surrender without hesitation if it is too much. Regarding the last rule, there is a 30,000-won fine should a clean up be required in the wake of any biological hazard one might cause, as it may become difficult to keep the noodles down (in addition to the price of the ramen, the total would be 50,000 won).

Over the years, less than 300 of over 1,500 contestants have succeeded. The record of 3 minutes, 51 seconds, set by a young man, remains unbroken, while a female contender tops the scoreboard with 9 minutes, 7 seconds. Those who find the regular portions a bit small, but are not ready for the jumbo size, can order the big selection, which is an additional 2,000 won for each bowl.

Also included in the menu are fried rice and curry rice, both costing 6,000 won and available in mini portions at 3,000 won. Japan’s dry Asahi beer is served cold for 6,000 won.

Open from 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m., with a short break to make noodles between 3 and 5 p.m. on weekdays. Closed on Mondays. Located next to Itaewon Hotel near exit 2 of Itaewon Station on subway line 6. Call (02) 792-2233.