Take a Bite of the Big Apple

Photos by Lee Hyo-won, except for green apple, below (Korea Times File)

NEW YORK - The Big Apple continues to symbolize the great American melting pot, and a culinary adventure to savor all of New York City’s dizzying food culture is not only ambitious but almost impossible in a limited amount of time, especially since chic restaurants and eateries seem to mushroom here continuously.

There are countless ``it’’ bars and brunch places that have international audiences smacking their chops while watching ``Sex and the City.’’ In the jungle of luminous skyscrapers, yellow cabs and poker-faced pedestrians, there is, without fail, a hotdog or pretzel stand in every corner. Then there’s Little Italy, dotted with pizzerias; Chinatown, teeming with dimsum places; and Koreatown, lined with round-the-clock ``galbijip.’’

Still, there’s nothing like cuisine that embodies the soul of a culture and a people, and one can only attempt to take a big bite of the Big Apple. The following is a very modest -- and very subjective -- list of low- to mid-budget treats the city has to offer. But what is certain is that this reporter finds herself going back to them time after time.

NY Exotica

Forget the hotdogs and the pretzels. The best street food -- and tastiest halal dish -- in the city can be found at the corner of 53rd Street and 6th Avenue. The modest truck is hard to miss, considering how a long line of hungry pedestrians can be spotted even in the wee hours around 4 a.m. For $6, you get a plate full of scrumptious lamb and chicken (you can choose either or both), rice and pita bread. Don’t forget to smother it with the white sauce, bottles of which can be found next to the truck. But the red chili sauce should be handled with care, because it will burn you.

Quintessential New York cuisine _ an eclectic mix of Spanish, Chinese-American and Kalyustan flavors, among other influences _ comes in tasting portions at Alta (slightly hidden on the south side of 10th Street between 5th and 6th Avenues). Chef Harrison Mosher offers small, fun dishes like ``Brussels Sprouts’’ with Fuji apples, crème fraiche and pistachio nuts or Moroccan Bistilla of chicken confit, creamy eggs, and scallion with harissa mayonnaise. The restaurant features small rooms with orange-colored walls and heavy wooden furniture, providing a cozy, intimate dining experience _ particularly since you’ll have to lean over the table with your company to taste the small yet satisfying portions. Call (212) 505-7777.

Prince & Pauper

Caviar for breakfast? ``Sex and the City’’ fans will be familiar with Norma’s, the chic brunch place found on the ground floor of Le Parker Meridian Hotel (West 57th Street between 6th and 7th Avenues). Don’t worry if $1,000 is too much for breakfast (appropriately named the Zillion Dollar Lobster Frittata), because Norma’s other meals are under $30. Try their lovely eggs Benedict and fluffy blueberry pancakes. Open from 7 a.m. to 3 p.m. everyday. Call (212) 708-7360.

Le Parker Meridian, however, is also home to the city’s secret obsession, the Burger Joint. Literally a hole in the wall, it is tucked away next to the front desk, with only a mini neon hamburger sign announcing its presence. After entering the posh marble-floored hotel lobby, you’ll be surprised to walk into the down-to-earth diner, where names are scribbled on poster-covered walls. You can order your hamburger ($7) at different levels of ``doneness’’ (rare, medium or well done) and choose the dressing (tomatoes, onion, etc). You can taste the smoky flame flavor from the charcoal grill. Cheeseburgers ($7.50) include two types of cheddar for special effect. Complete the experience with greasy fries ($3.50) and a cup of milkshake (vanilla or strawberry, $5) or beer. Call (212) 708-7417.

Art & Food

Gustav Klimt and Vienna coffee are a couple of Austria’s hottest assets, and you can get both at the Neue Gallerie (corner of 86th Street and 5th Avenue). This gallery is home to the painter’s gold-encrusted masterpiece ``Adele Bloch-Bauer I’’ among other works. Café Sabarsky on the ground floor features tasteful food and period objects. Sit at the classic wooden table below the beautiful lighting fixtures and savor Vienna coffee, desserts and sausages by chef Kurt Gutenbrunner. Closed on Tuesdays. Call (212) 288-0665.

After gallery hopping around Chelsea, swing by the meatpacking district’s never disappointing Balthazar. The onion soup gratinee ($10.50) is a steady pleaser, and other standard French bistro dishes such as moules frites (oysters with French fries, $20), steak frites with Béarnaise sauce ($29.50) and duck confit ($21) are delectable. Call (212) 343-1274.

Eastern Inspiration

You don’t need to be in Koreatown (West 32nd Street) for tasty ``bibimbap’’ (Korean mixed vegetable rice) and charcoal barbeque. Gyu-Kaku, a fashionable Japanese eatery in mid-town (East 50th Street and 3rd Avenue), offers Japanese-style ``galbi’’ (Korean barbeque) and kimchi bibimbap, which the server mixes for you. Call (212) 702-8816.

In the East Village, David Chang’s much talked about Momofuku Ssam Bar (corner of 13th street and 2nd Avenue) offers modern, upscale spin-offs of traditional Asian cuisine. The dishes, such as kimchi Fuji apple salad, boast creative presentation and delightful taste, but are rather tiny. This would be a better place to enjoy ``sake’’ (Japanese rice wine) and fun foods after a light dinner. Call (212) 254-3500. Another great place to hang out is the Bryant Park Grill. On a summer afternoon you can sip ice tea in view of the green park, while on a calm autumn evening you can sip cocktails at the romantically lit bar. Call (212) 840-6500.

Sweet Tooth

A meal is never complete without a dessert. Cupcakes are all the rage in Korea, and a New York trip is never complete without a mouthwatering visit to Magnolia Bakery (three shops found, one in the downtown area, the second near Rockefeller Center and a third one uptown). The sugary Red Velvet, served with traditional whipped vanilla icing, is a must ($3). Visit www.magnoliacupcakes.com.

A more formal venue for dessert is the ``Sex and the City'' favorite Payard's (Lexington Avenue, between 73rd and 74th Streets). The bistro-patisserie offers a mean onion soup gratinee that's topped with a generous amount of Gruyere cheese ($10), but the true highlight is the dessert menu. The cakes, such as the warm chocolate toffee cake with marshmallows, are to die for, even though they're a little pricey ($13). Call (212) 717-5252.

Another great place is Café Lalo (West 83rd Street, between Amsterdam and Broadway). While overrun by tourists, this charming French café fails to displease with its juicy berry pies, Belgian waffles and espresso. Breakfast sets range from $4.50 (Paris style croissant and coffee) to $18 (large Jewish lake sturgeon with salad, bagel and drink). Call (212) 496-6031.

On the Go

If you’re craving fresh crème brulee on the go, and happen to be in Greenwich Village, stop by the Dessert Truck (8th Street and University Place). The truck offers chocolate bread pudding, molten chocolate cake and more at reasonable prices. The slow-baked apples and cinnamon features a light, buttery pastry with caramelized baked apple and a heap of cinnamon, tart cranberries and streusel topped with light whipped cream _ ``it’s like autumn in a cup’’ as one fan said.

Whether you’re in a hurry or want to enjoy a nice sandwich in a cozy place, Le Pain Quotidien is the place to be. It’s a bakery with a large, wooden communal table in the middle, where you can munch away soups, tartines and baguette sandwiches. The chain shop can be spotted all over town. Visit http://www.lepainquotidien.com/.

Last but not least, you cannot leave New York without tasting New York-style pizza. Lombardi’s in Little Italy is more than famous, but Two Boots can be a fine alternative to busy people. The kitsch retro diner features a pair of boots by the window and pizzas with strange names inspired by celebrities, movie characters, etc. Toppings are fresh, diverse and generously served on your choice of crust (Sicilian or whole wheat). Visit http://www.twoboots.com/. You can order deliveries by phone or online.